Stage-D10 Ford Mustang GT RTR S650 - B.Hobson 1/10 RTR

Product detailed description

The Next Generation of HPI Racing Drift!
The Stage-D10 is HPI Racing's all-new, purpose-built 1/10th scale rear-wheel-drive drift platform, combining a great Ready-To-Run setup with the huge range of tuning possibilities demanded by today's RC drifters.

Developed from the ground up over three years, the Stage-D10 has been tested across multiple surfaces, by drivers ranging from RWD newcomers to experienced RC drifters. That testing helped us refine the chassis, add new features and develop a factory setup that delivers great all-around performance straight out of the box.

Underneath, there's a serious amount of adjustment waiting to be explored.

And because this is HPI, the first Stage-D10 RTR cars come topped with stunning officially licensed 2024 Ford Mustang RTR Spec-5 FD bodies, complete with authentic Formula Drift liveries, molded scale details, replica wheels and a full LED light system.

Stage-D10 Body Options
Straight from the RTR Vehicles garage and Formula Drift paddock, three officially licensed versions recreate the cars of Vaughn Gittin Jr., James Deane, or Ben Hobson.

Each version gets its own authentic livery, with a fully factory-finished and assembled 5-piece polycarbonate body, plus additional molded parts for the mirrors, vents, grilles and light buckets

Each Stage-D10 comes with detailed instructions showing exactly how to set up the body mounting system for the pre-finished Mustang shell, making installation quick and hassle-free. Best of all, no body posts stick through that Mustang shell!

Stage-D10 Chassis Variants
The Stage-D10 is a chassis design built specifically for modern RC drifting.

The factory setup gives you a capable starting point without needing to understand every adjustment before your first run. As your driving develops, there's a huge range of setup changes available to fine-tune how the car behaves.

BRUSHED RTR:​

• TF-51 4CH Radio and RF-51 Receiver with LED adaptor.​
• 20T Brushed 540 motor.​
• D-Box3 Lite gyro ​(Gain adjustable from CH4)​.
• SC-3SWP2 60A ESC with XT-60 connector.​
• HPI SD-07WR SERVO (WATER-RESISTANT/6.0V/7KG/PLASTIC GEARED).
• No battery or charger.​

FLUX RTR:​

• TF-51 4CH Radio and RF-51 Receiver with LED adaptor.​
• FLX-D10-3680 10.5T sensored brushless motor.​
• D-Box3 PRO gyro ​(Gain adjustable from CH4​, PCA - Priority Control Adjustment, AGS - Anti-Glitch System)​.
• FLX-D10 80A sensored ESC with XT-60 connector. Programmable, including Boost and Turbo timing​.
• HPI 4.8-8.4V Low-Profile Waterproof 12Kg 0.09s/60deg Titanium geared Brushless servo.
• No battery or charger​.

Stage-D10 Creator Edition
The Stage-D10 Creator Edition is a fully assembled, ready-to-drive chassis, giving you the perfect foundation to build your dream drift car. Simply add your choice of body, wheels, tyres, and electronics to create a setup that's uniquely yours.

Representing the purest form of Drift RC, the Creator Edition is a blank canvas waiting for your finishing touches. Whether you're recreating a favourite street machine, building a competition-inspired drifter, or creating something completely original, the possibilities are endless.

No matter your drifting style, you'll be on the track and sideways in record time!​

Over 100 Motor Positions!
The rear gearbox is where things get really interesting.

The Stage-D10 gives you more than 100 possible motor positions, allowing major changes to the position of the motor and the weight distribution at the rear of the chassis.

The transmission can also be configured with 3 or 4 gears, (Parts included) with the ability to also change the motor direction. Combine the gearbox configurations with all those motor positions and there are more than 200 possible options to experiment with.

The drivetrain uses a 2.6 internal FDR and a sealed composite geared rear differential.

Move it. Change it. Try it. That's what the Stage-D10 is all about.​

Ready to Drift
Adjustable camber links and toe block options combine with multiple front and rear roll centre and camber gain positions. Wheel hex spacing can be increased by 1mm or 2mm, while wishbone placement allows the wheelbase to be adjusted from 246mm to 264mm.

The steering system features fully adjustable Ackermann geometry, with forward, backward, up and down adjustment. There are also four servo mounting positions, giving you even more scope to change the steering setup.

Shorty battery packs can be mounted in mid or rear positions, allowing you to experiment with weight distribution and find the balance that suits your driving.

If you're new to RWD drifting, the factory setup gives you a great place to start. Get some track time, build your confidence and learn what the car can do. Then start experimenting.

Move the battery. Change the gearbox position. Try a different steering setup. Adjust the suspension. Change the wheelbase. For experienced drifters, all of those options are there from the start.

Fully Adjustable Suspension
The Stage-D10 front suspension gives you plenty of control over how the front end reacts through a drift. Adjustable camber links, steering links, multiple roll centre and camber gain positions allow you to fine-tune the geometry, while the threaded oil-filled coilover shocks make ride height and spring preload changes quick and easy.

Adjustable toe block options give you further control over the front suspension setup, with 1mm or 2mm wheel hex spacing providing a quick way to fine-tune the track width.

There are also mounting points ready for an optional front sway bar, giving you another tuning option as you dig deeper into the Stage-D10 setup.

At the rear, the focus moves to finding the balance and traction that suits your driving style. Adjustable camber links, toe block options and multiple roll centre and camber gain positions give you plenty to work with, backed up by the same threaded oil-filled coilover shocks but with a slightly longer +2mm ball link and stiffer spring than the front.

Included with the car are optional pistons and shock ball link lengths for the shocks.

The rear suspension also works around one of the Stage-D10's biggest tuning features. With the gearbox and motor position able to move through a huge range of locations, plus mid or rear battery placement, you can make significant changes to rear weight distribution and then use the suspension geometry to fine-tune the resulting chassis behaviour.

Mounting points for an optional rear sway bar are already built into the chassis, giving experienced tuners another option for controlling rear roll and response.

However you choose to set it up, there's one thing left to do... get sideways!​

Necessary equipment: 4x AA batteries for the transmitter, 2S LiPo stick/shorty battery with a compatible charger.

Run-in of the new electric motor
New model with engine, needs to be run in first. Before starting to use the DC electric motor, it is definitely recommended to run it. Some manufacturers require it as a condition for recognizing a possible engine claim. The purpose of the run-in is to seat the rotating parts well, smooth the friction surfaces of the contacts, and grind the carbons into the correct shape. The current enters the motor on the commutator surfaces using the so-called carbons, which may not have a perfectly adapted shape from production. If the new motor is loaded to the maximum without a previous run-in, the commutator surface or the carbons may be damaged due to large "sparking". The run-in will allow the carbons to settle on the commutator as perfectly as possible. Thus, the carbons will wear out less and last longer.

Electric motor run-in procedure:
-If you have a new RC model car or boat in which the engine is already mounted, proceed as follows. Place the model on the mat so that the wheels rotate above the surface. Let the engine run at the lowest possible speed for at least 20-30 minutes. You can then drive the model for 20-30 minutes at a lower speed and gradually increase the speed. Drive the model at full power only after the run-in phase has passed.

-If you have a new engine that has not yet been installed in the model, you can do the run-in in the traditional, proven way by immersing it in water. Connect the motor to the ESC controller and lower it by the cables vertically down into a container of clean water. Start the engine at low speed and let it run for 10-15 minutes. Then you can gradually increase the speed for a few minutes up to the maximum. finally, take the motor out of the water and let it run for a while to blow the water out of the motor. You can mount a run-in engine in the model and you can immediately drive at full power. You don't have to worry about the engine submerged in water. It will work normally and the water will cool it during the run-in. In addition, it washes out carbon particles during grinding (the water visibly darkens).

Protection against overheating of the electric motor:
Since the stator is made up of permanent magnets, it is good to know that these magnets gradually lose their "power". However, temperature also has a big impact. Each electric motor heats up during operation and can reach a temperature of 60°C (therefore, the motor must never be touched with bare hands after driving!). However, if the engine is not cooled or cooled insufficiently, or if it is driven for a long time at maximum speed, it may overheat and thus weaken the magnets. Even after cooling down, the engine will no longer reach its previous performance. Of course, other parts of the engine can also be damaged by high heat. It is therefore advisable to change the load mode, or to drive with two smaller accumulators with a break for replacement and cooling, rather than with one large-capacity one for a long time at full power.

Electric motor replacement, tuning:
If you decide to replace the electric motor in this model, pay attention to the following recommendations.
The new motor should be of the same type (size), have the same number of turns and the same supply voltage value as the original one. That way, you will be sure that the model will retain its original driving characteristics.
If you are planning a tuning motor, first of all, check whether the original ESC controller in the model will be able to work with the tuning motor, in order not to burn the ESC controller, or to prevent the ESC-motor system from working. When tuning a motor, it is usually necessary to replace a pinion with a different number of teeth.

WARNING! This RC car is not a toy, but a more sophisticated, functional model that behaves very much like a real car. Due to its realistic parameters, if it is not properly assembled and operated, it can cause you injury, or injure the viewer, or damage property. The model is intended for driving in a large room or outside on a dry surface. Driving in water, in snow, in puddles, mud, sand, in tall grass without appropriate waterproof treatment can cause damage to the electronics of the model. Driving on public roads and other places (e.g. parking lots) with car traffic is prohibited. Do not drive in thick grass, you will overheat or burn the engine!
This model requires regular maintenance, by disassembling it correctly according to the service manual, you will not lose the warranty.